A drive from Wisdom, Montana to Chinook, Montana takes close to six hours. The distance is close to 355 miles, as you take a straight shot north toward the Canadian border. According to Google Maps, it would take an individual around 118 hours, almost five days non-stop, to walk that distance. Let’s throw into the equation cold weather, and at times bitter with snow on the ground in some places. It should also be noted that the journey will be alongside a group of some 800 people, including elders and children. Following the battle at Big Hole, the Nez Perce continued on in hopes of finding refuge in Canada. They traveled 1,170 miles in a matter of 51 days. When they arrived at C’aynnim Alikinwaaspa, Place of the Manure Fire, they were just 40 miles short of the Canadian Border where they decided to rest. The next five days would be a battle that would end in siege and the well known surrender speech by Chief Joseph.
When you go to the Bear Paw Battlefield in October, you arrive at beautiful hillsides and rolling plains, with perhaps a dusting of snow on the ground, and the beautiful mountains off to the side as the backdrop. You can walk a trail that is 1 and ¼ mile long, to get a closer view of the battlefield. The hike loops back around to the original view point, but there is also a turn off trail that will take you to Death Rock, where a number of Chiefs had their lives taken. Along that trail you will see several dug-out pits in the ground, where people laid to take coverage. You will see a number of rocks and areas where visitors left offerings. At the top of one hillside you will see a placard marking where Chief Ollokot fell on September 30, 1877. As you near the end of the trail you will find the burial area of the fallen soldiers. The final point is marked to be near the site where Chief Joseph met with Colonel Miles to surrender his rifle.
The memorial began with a crowd surrounding a circle of chairs, while the drum opened the commemoration. Wilfred “Scotty” Scott, gave opening remarks and thanked those that were able to attend. A strong wind howled as people stood on that hillside wrapped in coats, hats, gloves, and blankets. Though the sun was out, the wind chill made it feel significantly colder. Standing there, you couldn’t help but think about how those warriors felt as they were exposed to the elements and therefore you withstand the cold. The ceremony continued on with heartfelt words and stories. Following the completion of the ceremony, attendees disperse to walk the trail and grab food.
The Battlefield is in the midst of the Fort Belknap reservation, which has a deep appreciation for the Nez Perce and the battle they fought. Each year they host the Chief Joseph Pow Wow as a memorial to Chief Joseph and the warriors. The food is hot and fresh, prepared by Kristal Fox and her family. They have been providing food for the past ten years or so. Fox said her father was never an emotional man, however when he told the story of Chief Joseph and the battle he always cried. When she attended the memorial for the first time, she arrived and was shocked, “I got there and it was cold, and the people didn’t even have coffee.” She went home, and with her family, prepared sandwiches for everyone. They have been providing the meal ever since, “The Nez Perce should never come here hungry,” Fox said. Though this was the final battle, it was not the end of the fight. Even today, there are still rights the Nez Perce are fighting for. Just as the warriors in the battle of Bear Paw fought for their way of life, the Nez Perce will continue to fight to maintain those rights for the next several generations. The words Chief Joseph spoke may seem to mean surrender, but in reality it was another war strategy to ensure survival of the Nez Perce people.
“Tell General Howard I know his heart. What he told me before, I have in my heart. I am tired of fighting. Our Chiefs are killed. Looking Glass is dead. Too-hul-hul-sote is dead. The old men are all dead. It is the young men who say yes or no. He who leads the young men is dead. It is cold and we have no blankets. The little children are freezing to death. My people, some of them have run away to the hills and have no blankets, no food; no one knows here they are, perhaps freezing to death. I want time to look for my children and see how many I can find. Maybe I shall find them among the dead. Hear me my chiefs, I am tired; my heart is sick and sad. From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.”
From the Nimiipuu Tribal Tribune